Hi Reader,

When I was a kid, my mom used to ski in Cortina, and her stories were never only about the skiing. She’d plan her outfits for the slopes, then change for the passeggiata, the evening stroll when the whole town comes out to see and be seen. She always said that at sunset, the mountains turn pink.

I didn’t believe her. Pink mountains? Long before I ever lived in Italy, or even set foot there, seeing them became a dream of mine. (She was right, by the way! When the sun is low at sunrise and sunset, the pale dolomite rock catches the light and glows, and locals call it the enrosadira.)

You’ve definitely heard of the Dolomites by now. Between this year’s Winter Olympics and a steady stream of influencer content, they’re having a moment. So let’s talk about the thing nobody posts... the crowds.

Yes, It Gets Busy. Go Further.

Remember when I said the answer to Venice crowds is to stay longer? In the Dolomites, the answer is to go further. In peak season, the famous spots get really busy. But the region spreads across multiple valleys, so you can go somewhere else, and many highlights are hidden in plain sight.

Take Cortina d’Ampezzo. It’s the Aspen of the Dolomites, and as my mom’s stories prove, it has always been a place to be seen. For the right traveler, that’s exactly the appeal.

For others, it can feel like too much of a scene, and it’s not always worth the price. If it sounds like your speed, our Cortina guide has our favorites. Just know the Dolomites go far beyond one town.

Then there are the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, those three peaks in every photo. I’ll be straight with you… they’re stunning, but the crowds get nuts. The weather is part of the problem. It doesn’t always let you get up there, so everyone crowds in on the good days. In high season, I’d skip them.

Pick Your Season, Then Your Valley

The Dolomites have two big seasons: hiking from late spring into fall, and skiing in winter. Much of the region closes in between, so start there.

Next, pick your valley, because that choice shapes your whole trip. We based ourselves in Val Gardena, around Ortisei, and spent our days up on the Alpe di Siusi. I’ll tell you the exact moment I fell for it. We rode the cable car up from Siusi allo Sciliar, and when I looked back, I could see all the way down the valley.
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At the top, we stepped out into a huge open meadow with Sassolungo rising in the distance. I stood there thinking, “Oh, I can’t wait for our outdoor-loving clients to land here.” It has all the history and beauty you could want, without Cortina’s prices or crowds.

Is skiing more your thing? Look at Corvara. Locals kept telling us it’s the more chill Cortina, and I trust locals on this stuff.

If you make your travel decisions based on what to eat, check out our guide to Dolomites food.​

Caught My Eye

If you want to be pampered, ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti is a five-star spa resort right in Ortisei. For something smaller and more design-minded, our clients have enjoyed Schgaguler in Castelrotto. And that’s just the start. Between the mountain huts and the little villages, there’s a right fit for everyone, and we love matching people to theirs.

What I Wanted To Eat Up There

It turned chilly up there (puffers, scarves, and beanies cold), and all I wanted was a plate of gnudi. I know they’re Tuscan, not Alpine. But when I lived in Italy, they were the first thing I made as soon as the weather turned.

​My ricotta gnudi are simple, pillowy ricotta dumplings in a classic sage-butter sauce. Make extra sauce, too. Toss it with any noodles or spoon it over roasted fish or chicken right at the end.

Book By The End Of 2026

Everywhere we went this fall, from Paris to Venice to the Dolomites and Puglia, our partners told us the same thing: book by the end of 2026. That goes for ski trips this winter and even trips next summer. If you have your eye on our favorite hotels, this is your window.

P.S. Dolomites on your list for this winter or next summer? Tell us when you want to go, and we’ll help you find your valley.