Hi Reader,

I’m writing you as I depart Venice after spending nearly a week along the canals. This was the first stop on the Italy leg of our fall research trip, and, even after dozens of visits, the city still manages to surprise me with its creativity, beauty, and vibrancy.

It’s also more crowded than ever. If you spend your whole visit moving between St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge, it’s easy to leave thinking Venice equals crowds. But step away from those landmarks and the city changes. The streets get quieter, and you begin to notice how distinct the six sestiere (neighborhoods) really are.

Give Venice The Time It Deserves

First things first, plan to stay longer. When someone says they’re planning just two nights there, I nudge them to extend their visit. Having around four nights gives you access to a Venice it’s hard to otherwise experience. Those extra days allow you to see more than just the highlights, including workshops, wine bars, and galleries you might rush right past.

Getting to explore San Marco, Cannaregio, Castello, and Dorsoduro districts first thing in the morning or at night gives you another look outside of the crowds. And, even more than other destinations, where you stay shapes the whole trip.

Pro Tip: If you get perfect weather like we’ve had, you can explore the outer islands or even day trip to nearby Treviso or Prosecco wine country.

The People Who Show You The City’s Other Side

A big piece of our research trips is connecting with our on-the-ground partners to learn from their expertise. We’ve spent hours chatting with them to craft unique experiences like private food crawls among the city’s wine bars, tours driving deep into Venice’s Jewish history, private artisan workshop visits, and even biking among the vineyards on the lagoon’s other islands.

Those are the experiences I get really excited about. A few hours with a local who intimately knows a place helps you see what you’d otherwise miss. It’s also why we keep coming back ourselves. I learn something new on every visit that often changes how I’d plan this trip for our clients.

Thinking About Venice Next Year?

The one thing we’ve heard consistently during our visit? The best lodging and experiences are in such demand that you need to book now for next year. Our partners are quoting a 9-12 month lead time on their calendars… so, if the Serenissima is on your family’s list, don’t hesitate to get in touch.

Now I’m Dreaming Of The Alps (And Cheese)

We head north into the Alps next, where the forecast is changing, some rain and cooler fall conditions. That has me dreaming of cozy meals, and I plan on getting my fair share of polenta, cheese, and truffle while we’re up there. Our guide to the food of the Dolomites covers what’s on the table.

The dish I’m most eager to eat again is polenta with fondue mixed in (think mac and cheese, polenta style). It’s indulgent, over the top, and absolutely worth trying.

If fall has you craving something warm and cheesy too, give our California cheese fondue a try. It keeps the Alpine technique but builds the pot from California cheese, wine, and brandy, and it feels exactly right once the weather turns.

I’ll be sure to check in as we move through the Alps. In the meantime, have you been to Venice? Hit reply and tell me which part of the city stayed with you!